Agitator
Restoration Part 2

 

The inside after much scraping.  I chose not to use chemical stripers because of the difficulty of actually being able to get out all of the stripping residue before applying epoxy and multiple layers of varnish.  I wanted to make sure the penetrating epoxy and the varnish would not be repelled by anything left behind....especially in the joints! 
 
 
 
 
 
 

My original plan was to re-fasten the stringers to the frames at joints that appeared marginal.  There was really a 'mixed bag' of bolts, screws, washers, and nuts utilized over the years.........upon closer inspection they ranged from rusted blobs that were once bolts to fractured lag screws.  The more I looked....the worse I felt about each of the joints. After removing a few of the fasteners I discovered there was no actual bond between the frames and the stringers at ANY of the joints.  Therefore, I have removed, stripped and restored the stringers with penetrating epoxy. Here is my father and I getting the last bits of black paint off of them and ready for the epoxy.  I will re-fasten them with new stainless bolts, locknuts and washers. 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 

New coupler we added and front pin assembly we machined.  I made the pin removable if I ever need to change it down the road.  We also made some wooden accents to spruce up the trailer! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Here are the stringers......completely stripped of paint/varnish and sanded down to bare wood.  They are still in great shape! 
 
 
 


 
 
 

Anytime you atomize epoxy you better have the right protection! I put on two coats of deep penetrating epoxy before building it back up with varnish. 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The interesting point of this photo is that I didn't fall off the roof when taking the picture and you cannot see any black paint in the interior! (this is of course from 15').
 

A new rear bumper has been added to the trailer along new with matching step boards on the sides.
 
 
 
 

It's now that time in the restoration process for the boat to go from right-side-up to up-side-down. 
I put together an article, along with photos, that illustrate how I did that.
To see the details of flipping this particular hydroplane over – click here

 
 


 

Lisa made the mistake of coming out to the shop and saying, 'Hey - whatcha doing?'  She was immediately commissioned as the 'Chief Petrified Putty Remover' and was put to work.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Once all of the putty was removed, the next step was to back out all of the wood screws.  Upon inspection, the screws on the whole were in good shape but all of them were loose.  The actual screw holes were in great shape (none of them were stripped) but they did have a very thin layer of soft wood within the countersink.  I put a small collar on a modified drill (the point was ground to match the original countersink) and set it so that it just removed the thin layer of soft wood.
 
 
 
 
 


 
 
 

Each hole was prepped with penetrating epoxy and a new silicon bronze wood screw with a Frearson drive was installed.
 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 

Once all of the screws were replaced each of the holes were carefully packed with putty and then hand sanded down to be flush with the bottom surface.
 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 

Some of the main stringer attachments had what appeared to be a hand-made countersunk stainless steel washers under the heads of the bolts.  Keeping with the tradition, we made a quick hammer die and knocked out a couple dozen washers.
 
 
 
 
 
 

The washers give the main stringer attachment a nice finished look. The restoration will keep progressing throughout the winter in my new heated garage.

Agitator Restoration Part 3
Agitator History
©2000-2001 Alan Radue