Rebuild Part 2

A front shot of Miss Peg. It looks like Jack is almost ready to start fitting some of the plywood skins to this famed F-Class hydroplane. 
This Ron Jones design is simply in a class by itself. Very clean lines and smooth features is going to make this hydroplane quite special. 
I'm sure Mr. Jones would be very complimentary of the fine workmanship being put into this (new) vintage hydroplane. 
Below are more photos and text sent in by Jack.
 
 


Installing the front deck battens. 
Where the battens intersect the nose there is a compound angle that becomes more severe as you move away from the center of the boat. 
You also have to be sure the taper at the nose is even so the finished nose will be of an even thickness all the way across. 
I started with the short pieces to get the feel of fitting everything up. 
The two outside battens run almost the full length of the boat and are quite flimsy...a challenge in patience!
 
 


I wanted to include some wood from the original boat and have it be visible. 
Found some stringer parts that weren't too horrible. 
Denailed, planed them down, and bonded a piece of 3mm plywood to the back. 
These formed the longitudinal frames of the driver's and engine compartment.
 


I started to install the deck beams perpendicular to the bottom of the boat, this would have required fairing each batten off along its entire length. 
Both a lot of  unnecessary work and  weakening the batten. 
This tool allows marking of the mortise at 90 degrees to the tangent of the decks curvature, and to the correct depth. 
The adjustable part is about 1/32" narrower than the batten to allow fitting. 
A few strokes with a file and you are good to go. 
Depending on which end of the boat that you are working on, the mortise bottoms are tapered to reflect the deck curvature.
 
 


I was having trouble visualizing where the deck battens would run out through the nosepiece, so I made this notched piece of plywood. 
You bend the batten down until it fits against the nose, then you can measure up from the underside to calculate the finished thickness of the nose. 
To adjust, slide the batten fore and aft until you get the thickness desired.
 
 


I have finished fairing the left non-trip and most of the right. 
The next step is to get batten bonded, and finish up on the fairing and get some plywood cut.
 
 

Right Non-Trip faired
There is a half batten on the right side that extends from the transom, forward 3 frames. 
This wasn't on the plan, but is on the boat.
 
 

The side bonded in plywood
Last weekend I managed to complete the right side plywood and rough cut the first bottom piece.
 


 
 
 

aluminum to plywood for transom
As you can see the aluminum has been fitted to the transom. 
I wanted to put this on first so the side plywood would cover the edge...it makes for a more finished look.
 

View from the transom

©2001 Jack Hines

Miss Peg Rebuild Part 3